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Month: July 2016

61. Pontrhydybont (Four Mile Bridge) – Malltraeth

61. Pontrhydybont (Four Mile Bridge) – Malltraeth

Distance: 18.5 miles

Max Altitude: 57 m

Min Altitude: 1 m

Height Gain: 302 m

Height Loss: 308 m

That was the best night’s sleep I’ve had in ages. I awoke in Gary’s house refreshed. And I was able to have a proper wash too. Heaven. Diolch o galon i ti a’r teulu oll, Gary!

It was a pretty decent day for walking. Not too hot or cold, but sunny and with a fresh breeze. The optimum day to get some miles underfoot.

I left Pontrhydybont and was soon back on Ynys Môn, where I was taken through farmland, marsh and foreshore, first off.

The terrain began to change and it became very sandy underfoot. Something told me that I was getting closer to RAF Valley. The signs were very subtle…

Ignoring the welcoming notices beside me I strode onto a wide beach which would take me around the coast to Rhosneigr. It stretched right out in front of me.


The going was pretty difficult because every step I took sank my feet into the soft sand. It was energy sapping but the wind was behind me, and I wasn’t the only one taking advantage of it.



I noticed lots of jellyfish that had been washed up.

That’s when my feet got soaked as I tried, unsuccessfully, to navigate a river. I wanted to stop when I got to Rhosneigr itself (to dry my trainers amongst other things) but the cafes and restaurants were fully booked. So I ate a snack instead and ploughed on.

Up ahead was a mound and inside it a Neolithic burial chamber, dating from 2500BC. Most of the features at Barclodiad-y-Gawres are behind bars in order to protect it.

As afternoon became evening, I surveyed where I had come from. There was Mynydd Tŵr (Holyhead Mountain) all the way in the distance.


The tide was in, which was a shame, and bad timing on my part. Had it been low, I could have visited St Cwyfan.


This church is perched on a miniature island called Cribinau and encircled by a sea wall. It dates back to the 12th century. Another place to return to.

I went inland to Aberffraw in search of some grub but my plans were thwarted once more. The pub stopped serving at 6pm and the shop was shut. Gah!

So I had no choice but to walk on to Malltraeth since that’s where camp was. 

I was shattered when I got there but also quietly pleased. I had gone my longest distance in weeks despite my feet. 

60. Penrhosfeilw – Pontrhydybont (Four Mile Bridge)

60. Penrhosfeilw – Pontrhydybont (Four Mile Bridge)

Distance: 11.6 miles

Max Altitude: 56 m

Min Altitude: 1 m

Height Gain: 216 m

Height Loss: 262 m

Another night of rain on Ynys Môn. The current pattern seems to be bad weather at night and fine weather during the day. As long as it’s not rain when I’m walking, I don’t care!

I had a cooked breakfast at Blackthorn Farm, and an enormous amount of coffee. I then spent a good ninety minutes trying to get the blog online. The signal ever a problem.

When it had uploaded I got back on the Wales Coast Path. I must say a big thank you to everyone at Blackthorn Farm for making me so welcome and giving me a free pitch for the night. The facilities are fabulous, especially the shower block!

I found my way back to the trail and this was the sight that greeted me –

Based on that alone, it was going to be an excellent day.

As I walked, I noticed lots of activity in the water below me. This was to continue. There were people in yachts, people in speed boats, coasteers, divers, kayakers…


One day during this walk, and soon, I’ll have to have a dip in the sea at the very least.

Next stop was Porth Dafarch, a sweet and not-too-busy cove, with toilets, and more importantly a food van.

I had a bag of cheesy chips and a can of Vimto (top notch!) with this as my view –

Energised, I walked on across fields and past a few houses. From afar, this house reminded me of Norman Bates’ house in Psycho for some reason.

Outside were a number of maritime relics, beautifully rusted.

The next location was tourist hotspot Bae Trearddur. I could have stopped but as soon as I saw the throngs of holidaymakers, I hotfooted it onwards. The crowds made me feel claustrophobic. Another place I’ll have to return to;the list becomes longer.

A tatty kissing gate signalled that I was back in the wild.

And then, a wonderful surprise as Bwa Du (black arch) appeared before me. The photo in no way does it justice.

And shortly after Bwa Du, an even greater surprise – Bwa Gwyn. Incredible.

I didn’t want to leave and reluctantly dragged myself away in order to continue on the path.

Way ahead in the distance, I could see the outline of Eryri (Snowdonia) and Llŷn in the distance. This is where I was headed.

I could see a small Coastguard’s lookout in front of me. As I got nearer, I waved at the man inside and he waved back.

I could see why he did his job.

I rounded the Rhoscolyn headland and headed inland up the beach.

I walked up the road and nipped in to the White Eagle pub for a drink and snack. It was evening, so I decided to head towards my base for the night in Pontrhydybont (Four Mile Bridge).

My friend Gary had kindly offered me the use of his house. I virtually collapsed into it, shattered. There are no words for the joy I felt at the sight of a proper bed and a set of towels. Diolch o galon, Gary a’r teulu! I was set for a fantastic night’s sleep.

59. Morglawdd Caergybi (Holyhead Breakwater) – Penrhosfeilw

59. Morglawdd Caergybi (Holyhead Breakwater) – Penrhosfeilw

Distance: 5.2 miles

Max Altitude: 176 m

Min Altitude: 32 m

Height Gain: 273 m

Height Loss: 259 m

It was another rough night on Ynys Môn. Persistent rain drummed down on Clark Tent and I barely slept. I awoke bleary eyed which turned into a state of crankiness a few minutes later.

The saving grace was the wonderful Caffi’r Parc, where I had breakfast and plenty of coffee. 

As ever I was having signal issues and was unable to upload the blog from yesterday, so I decided to look around.

I was in a country park that at one point was an old quarry which supplied stone for the 1.5 mile long Holyhead Breakwater, the longest in Europe. 

There’s a memorial in the park to the crew of the ‘Jigs Up’, a US Eighth Airforce B-24 Bomber, who died when their aircraft crashed near Ynys Arw (North Stack) after running out of fuel in December 1944


If you’re at the country park, do pop in to the visitors’ centre and ask for Will Stewart, the warden. I spent ages chatting with him and he has a wealth of knowledge about the local area. 

When I eventually left for my walk it was early afternoon and I decided to make it a short day. It had been a late night the day before so I thought what the heck. 

What lay ahead was Mynydd Tŵr (Holyhead Mountain). But with blue skies above me I couldn’t wait to get started. There couldn’t possibly be a better day than this to tackle this stretch of the Wales Coast Path. 


I was stunned by the beauty surrounding me. I felt alive.


It was raw and rugged. Everywhere I looked there was something of interest, something to contemplate.


Up ahead was Ynys Arw (North Stack). This is the site of a redundant fog warning station, including the Trinity House Magazine, where shells for the warning cannon were stored. 

What a location! And what magnificent views of Ynys Lawd (South Stack), where I was headed next.

It was time to ascend. 


I climbed up rocks and crag. It wasn’t too dissimilar to the Inca Trail underfoot in places, with huge bits of rock carved into chunky steps.

It was pretty tough going, but I was constantly rewarded with the most awesome views so felt great despite my aching calves. 


I didn’t make for the summit of Mynydd Tŵr (Holyhead Mountain). It is a reason for me to return to this incredible spot another time. 


I spotted a group of climbers ascending a face near me. What an exhilarating location to climb.


And then the best view of all, Ynys Lawd (South Stack).


I sat and took it all in for a while. I decided against actually visiting the lighthouse. All the more reason to return.


After that it was a simple walk to camp for the night. Blackthorn Farm had generously offered me a free pitch for the evening, thanks to Terry who had rung ahead for me. 

I set Clark Tent up happily. It had been one of the best days so far.

58. Llanfachraeth- Morglawdd Caergybi (Holyhead Breakwater)

58. Llanfachraeth- Morglawdd Caergybi (Holyhead Breakwater)

Distance: 10.8 miles

Max Altitude: 30 m

Min Altitude: 1 m

Height Gain: 140 m

Height Loss: 121 m

 

What a difference a decent night’s sleep can make. A stark contrast to the previous night, I slept like a log.

As soon as I went downstairs at the Holland Hotel, I was greeted by owner Liz, who made me a huge portion of scrambled eggs on toast and two massive mugs of coffee. With my belly full, I said goodbye to her and husband Steve before I set off. Thank you so much to the two for giving me a place to stay for the night.

First job was to cross the Afon Alaw on this green footbridge.

The sky was murky and threatened rain. It had rained during the night but when I began walking, it was dry, just. It wasn’t to last though and two kilometres in, it started pouring. My new trainers gave way almost immediately and I was soon squelching along on the Wales Coast  Path.

When it started to rain harder I donned my waterproofs and covered my pack. By now, a very familiar drill. And then, it was a case of head down and just go.

I reached the housing estate of Newlands Park, drenched. I needed to dry off in order to continue. My feet were in a state inside my trainers, I could feel. So instead of continuing on the WCP, I made my way towards Valley where I took respite inside  the pub, The Valley. I’ve never been so happy to see electric hand (trainers) driers in my life. Oh, and their coffee wasn’t half bad either.

I stayed for a couple of hours drying out and becoming human again. The weather cleared and I decided to make a break for it, walking towards Ynys Gybi (Holy Island) by the side of the A5. I walked along a structure built by Thomas Telford between 1823 and 1824.

Before entering Penrhos Nature Reserve I spotted the Coffee Cups tearoom on the side of the road so went in to see what was on offer. When I saw the words ‘cream’ and ‘tea’, I didn’t need much convincing. I wasn’t about to ignore the chance to eat scones and jam like I had a couple of days ago.

Satisfied, I rejoined the path and followed a route through the forest.


The trail left the forest and came out where there were views of the port ahead.

I looked across the bay to where I had walked from during the previous few days. In the distance, Porth Swtan and Porth Penrhyn.

On arrival in Holyhead I made a beeline for the port, as I knew it would be open. I had a coffee and a snack with my feet elevated, while watching people coming and going.

I got on my way and crossed the Celtic Gateway Bridge.

New contrasted with old as the WCP went past the historic heart of the town – a 1700 year old Roman fort. The fortress of Cybi is named after St Cybi, hence ‘Caergybi’, the Welsh name for Holyhead.


I had already decided at that point that my stopping point would be just short of Holyhead Mountain. I enjoyed strolling along Traeth Newry and nosing at all the random bits of maritime history.


I finished walking finally when I got to the Holyhead Breakwater Country Park.


It had been a wonderful day, and I had managed my painful feet successfully. Tomorrow it would be onwards and upwards on the craggy Holyhead Mountain.

57. Porth Swtan – Llanfachraeth

57. Porth Swtan – Llanfachraeth


Distance: 8.08 miles

Max Altitude: 29 m

Min Altitude: 1 m

Height Gain: 147 m

Height Loss: 160 m

What a night of sleep that wasn’t! I had expected storms, and boy, they didn’t disappoint. I spent the night in some sort of half consciousness wondering whether the wind would be so strong as to lift Clark Tent up into the air and off out to sea… That didn’t happen, but nor did any sleep either. 

So I woke up bleary and irritated. I cooked porridge and ate it half heartedly. After washing, I was on my way once more, heading south. 

Thank you to Karen from the Gadlys campsite in Porth Swtan for generously donating a pitch. It’s a stunning spot with a warm welcome. 

The sun was out and the sky a cheery blue. What a difference a few hours can make on the Wales Coast Path.

I arrived at Porth Tyddyn-Ucha and decided that this would be a good spot to elevate my feet. Plus I hadn’t had coffee yet. A cardinal sin surely!

Across the bay, I could see Holyhead in the distance. A huge ferry from Ireland was coming into dock. I watched with fascination. 

After a strong coffee and several biscuits I continued. Before I knew it I had reached Porth Penrhyn. 

The path took me through a park with dozens and dozens of static caravans. Usually, I would curse such ugliness but not today. Why? Well, they had a shop on site (yes, I am that fickle these days). I bought myself an ice cream and stocked up on a few supplies before rejoining the trail. 

I trekked across farmers’ fields and on roads, through reeds and marshland. The Wales Coast Path arrived at a broad beach which seemed to go on for miles. I was the only person there. Had it not been for my painful feet, I would have donned my bathing costume and gone for a dip. 

The sun on my face was heavenly but the grit in my shoes wasn’t. I stopped to brush them off and just laid there for a while with my eyes closed. Bliss.

I could have stayed there forever but I had a room to get to, once again organised by the wonderful Terry!

Thank you to Liz and Steve at the Holland Hotel Llanfachraeth for giving me such a friendly welcome. It meant the world to this weary traveller. The delight of a bed and shower was beyond compare!

My evening was spent catching up with old friend, Gary, whom I used to work with at the BBC. 

I passed out, probably with a smile on my face, as soon as my head hit the pillow.

56. Wylfa – Porth Swtan

56. Wylfa – Porth Swtan

Distance: 7.75 miles

Max Altitude: 59 m

Min Altitude: 4 m

Height Gain: 246 m

Height Loss: 236 m

Today began with an inevitable and sad goodbye. I said farewell to my beloved Ann and Noel. They have been thoroughly wonderful these past two weeks, none more so than last week when I was injured. I will be forever grateful for all the help they gave me.

There were smiles all round when they dropped me off at Wylfa Nuclear Power Station.

But as soon as their car pulled away, I had tears in my eyes.

Confusion as to the route of the path kept me somewhat focused on the task ahead. It wasn’t clear and there were a multitude of different maps on signposts, all showing a variety of diversions due to the works taking place on the site. So I went for broke and walked in through the front gate. Lo and behold I saw a waymark! And I was on track. I never would have thought the trail would have gone through a nuclear power station.


I had a light lunch and continued walking across fields. I stopped to consider my route when I came to this sign. Flashbacks of my close scrapes with cattle across Wales suddenly. 

Fortunately, my concerns were unfounded and the giant, snorting beast I was expecting wasn’t there. Phew.

I then bade farewell to Wylfa, as it disappeared out of my sight. 

In front on me appeared Cemlyn Nature Reserve.

This is when things started to go a bit wrong as waymarks got confusing following a choice of inland or shore coastal path. I decided to go inland since I didn’t know the tide times and has no signal on my phone in order to be able to check. 

I got excited when I saw a sign for cream teas. I decided against it when I realised it would take me at least a mile off route. Looking back I regret that. What’s a mile when there’s a scone on the horizon eh??

After that I completely missed my markers and ended up on a walk across farmland for a few kilometres, having to go in certain directions due to being faced with electric fences at every turn. 

There were cattle everywhere. I looked at them. They looked at me.


Cattle = water. And since I was running low on bottled water, I decided to drink from this receptacle. 


But don’t worry if you’re currently reading this while gagging! I used my Water-to-Go bottle. 

Finally, I found the coast again, to my relief. 


I walked to the next cove and decided to have a cup of coffee and a biscuit.

Energised, I strode on to my stopping point for the night, Porth Swtan. It stretch 

It stretched out in front of me and I stopped for a while to take it all in. The weather wasn’t the best but that didn’t matter.

Ever the great friend, Terry from Terry’s Trek had organised a free pitch for me at the Gadlys campsite. What a star. So off I went to set Clark Tent up. I was given a warm welcome at the site, and took the opportunity to have a hot shower. 

All was well.

—–

Ann,

Fe fydda i’n gweld eisiau eistedd o flaen yr adolygiad bapurau newydd gyda’n gilydd yn bwyta orennau bach! Diolch o galon am bopeth dros yr wythnosau ddiwethaf. X

55. Torllwyn – Wylfa

55. Torllwyn – Wylfa

Distance: 7.33 miles

Max Altitude: 78 m

Min Altitude: 12 m

Height Gain: 274 m

Height Loss: 293 m

I’m back! 

Words cannot express how good it feels to be not only back on the trail but also back on this blog. I have spent the time since I limped off the Wales Coast Path last Monday with my feet up and on ice being looked after like a queen by Ann and Noel. I have had a professional opinion on the state of my feet, new footwear and orthotics. I am also held together almost entirely by K tape by now. 

So earlier today, I hit the path where I left off…the side of the road. But I was back on the real Wales Coast Path in no time. 

The path stretched out in front of me in a series of ups and downs.

My lunch stop was at the most northern point of my journey, overlooking Ynys Badrig (aka the ridiculously named Middle Mouse in English). 

Not a bad view eh? Apparently St Patrick found himself shipwrecked on the little island before he swam ashore to found a nearby church. He must have been one heck of a swimmer, that’s all I can say. 

After lunch I faced the steepest and most treacherous descent so far on my journey (or maybe I’ve just blocked out that switchback section of the Offa’s Dyke Path). It zig-zagged all the way down to Porth Llanlleiana, and its derelict porcelain works.

Just as I was walking across the front of the beach, I spotted a group of kayakers paddling towards the shore. I resolved that I would return to this perfect little beach in the same fashion in the future.

And of course, with every sharp descent comes the inevitable ascent. Oh dear. Better on the knees but brutal on the lungs.

Then the sight of Llanbadrig came into view, which is the church that Olympic swimmer St Patrick founded in 440AD. It’s not a particularly inspiring structure. However, what I did notice as I walked past was that passers by had stuffed flowers into the exterior wall alongside the cemetery.

I saw a bench and took that as my cue to have a sit down and elevate my feet. This is something I do every hour or so of walking. 

An older woman walked past me with a Welsh border collie on a lead. I said hello and asked if she wanted to sit down. She thanked me and declined, adding that she’d been inside the church sitting down for ages and had just managed to escape. She had been there for a thirty minute talk on the history of the church with her husband which had turned into a two hour agonising lecture. When the dog got restless she’d taken that as her chance to leave, abandoning her husband inside for the sake of politeness. 

My fifteen minutes were up so on I went, rounding Porth Padrig, with Llanbadrig behind me across the bay. 

In no time I was in Cemaes Bay. I had an ice cream (vanilla and rum & raisin) while overlooking the harbour. It would have been rude not to.

Everywhere there were relics from Cemaes’ maritime past.


I headed out of the town and towards the imposing figure of Wylfa Nuclear Power Station. It has now been shut down but will be forever a blot on the landscape since it will not only take decades to decommission but also because another plant is going to be built practically next door. 

The Wales Coast Path is currently being diverted from its usual route due to archaeological works being undertaken as part of the new nuclear development. I walked across fields and through a mini forest to try to find the alternative route but went a tad wrong. So I decided to call it a day and headed for the road, past the entrance to Wylfa. 


A few months ago I would have been able to pop in and try one of their wonderful luminous green coffees at the visitors’ centre. Alas, the cafe has also been decommissioned. 

I am happy with my day’s progress. More than seven miles and barely a sign of tendon trouble. I hope it stays that way.

48. Porth Amlwch – Torllwyn

48. Porth Amlwch – Torllwyn

Distance: 5.5 miles

Max Altitude: 74 m

Min Altitude: 14 m

Height Gain: 182 m

Height Loss: 123 m

I am writing this blog with my feet elevated and with more than a little frustration, as I’m on enforced rest due to the ongoing injury to the tendons in my feet. 

However, let’s go back to the start of the day. 

Over scrambled eggs on toast, I got chatting to a very friendly couple from Solihull, Sue and John, who are on their first visit to Ynys Môn. They were interested in the Welsh language and in where to visit. It was nice to have company over food. After breakfast, they were kind enough to drop me off at my start point for the day, Porth Amlwch. 

The day was already warm, with the sun beating down. Not a cloud was in the sky. Perfect!

After being without a signal, I managed to find a nearby park bench which had three whole bars of 3G. Delight! I got on my way before midday, with everything uploaded. 

I had to find my way out of Amlwch on the Wales Coast Path, across a playing field and through industrial areas. These friendly horses came to greet me as I ambled past their paddock.

The terrain soon changed, and the Wales Coast Path suddenly resembled somewhere in the Mediterranean. I found myself stopping every few metres to just stare. 

I arrived in to Porth Llechog, so named because it provides good shelter. In English, it’s known as Bull Bay, but what an ugly title that is.

Back in the distance was Porth Amlwch. 

It was a glorious day above me. Nothing could wipe the smile off my face. Nothing except the narrow kissing gates which left me jammed and helpless like an upturned turtle. I cursed my enormous rucksack.

I continued and made my way past the various coves and bays which followed Porth Llechog, still stopping every few metres to marvel at the beauty of it all.

All along, the pain in my foot was increasing. I took some Vitamin I and tried to put it out of my mind. 

I spotted the ideal lunch stop on the cliff edge. There wasn’t a soul around. Just me and my food.

I could have stayed there in the sun all day long but forced myself to get on my way after I’d finished eating. The pain in my foot was greater than the strength of the Vitamin I. 

I heard a chug chug in the distance and stopped to look. A fishing vessel pootled around the bay below me. Seagulls followed behind. I thought of Eric Cantona.

I hobbled onwards and rounded the headland. I was greeted by a structure which looked like ruins from the Byzantine era from a distance. 

It’s actually a disused Victorian brickworks. 

I badly wanted to explore the site further but the pain in my left foot was too great and I was forced to sit down, leaning against my rucksack. I checked my pack and I only had 500ml of water left. 

I had two choices in such hot weather – carry on somehow on my bad foot and find a water source, or quit walking and call it a day. I didn’t want to give up but the sensible part of me told me I had no choice. I could barely stand on my foot for one thing, plus the need to keep hydrated was paramount.

So, I found the nearest road and that was that. 

Again, the sensible part of me tells me I need to rest my foot and let it regain strength. But the other part of me is angry with myself and wants to get back on the trail no matter what. 

What will happen is a compromise. I’ll rest for a couple of days, ice my foot, compress it and strap it up. And then I’ll get back on the Wales Coast Path.

I may not get to the end of the journey in lightning time but I will get there in the end. 

47. Traeth Lligwy – Porth Amlwch

47. Traeth Lligwy – Porth Amlwch

Distance: 8.01 miles

Max Altitude: 83 m

Min Altitude: 1 m

Height Gain: 262 m

Height Loss: 269 m

Having had problems finding a signal in order to upload yesterday’s blog, I didn’t get underway until the afternoon. Not ideal but there we go.

First job was to cross Afon Goch and get to the other side of the estuary. 

The tide was out so I decided to walk along the estuary bed rather than take the high route of the Wales Coast Path. There were many things to be seen including several boat wrecks stuck in the sand. 

I came onto the shore. Once again I decided to navigate the beach rather than take the path on the cliff edge. I’ve never seen a beach so filled with shells. The colours popped in every direction I looked.

 

I crunched along the shore and finally made my way up onto the cliff to rejoin the path. From there I had a fantastic view of Ynys Dulas, a tiny island not far from shore. Upon the island is a  structure. I wondered what it was and found that it had been built in 1821 to store food and provide shelter for shipwrecked seamen.

All the way, I kept looking back to see the trace of Eryri (Snowdonia) behind me in the distance.

There were many ups and downs on this section. It was deceptively tiring. I was lucky to have a nice breeze on me.

As I rounded the headland I could see he lighthouse at Llaneilian. It was a significant landmark on my map and meant that I was leaving the eastern side of Ynys Môn and starting to move along its northern shores. In English it’s known as Point Lynas Lighthouse, but in Welsh we call it Goleudy Trwyn y Balog.

I didn’t have time to go and explore the lighthouse fully unfortunately. But I’ve learnt that it’s up for sale, not that I have more than £1million at my disposal!

Shortly after that point, I said a very sad farewell to Y Gogarth (Great Orme). It had been in my view – either in front of me, to the side of me, underneath me or behind me – for almost a week. It was a landmark against which I was able to judge my speed and position. I was sorry to see it disappear from my eyeline. 

I wasn’t expecting to arrive at a holy well but that I did. St Eilian’s well to be precise. There didn’t seem to be much water left inside but there is a small statue of the man himself nearby.

The ups and downs were taking their toll on my already damaged feet. As well as the undulating terrain, it was also very craggy with steep steps rather than a discernible path. So I was rather glad to see signs of buildings in the distance.

I was arriving into Amlwch Port.

This was my stopping point for the evening. I was hungry and looking forward to getting to sleep.

—–

Incidentally, I need to say a big thank you to Lia at The Pilot Boat for sponsoring me. Very kind indeed. And another thank you to Terry Baker for his continued help. Diolch yn fawr!

46. Borth-Wen – Traeth Lligwy

46. Borth-Wen – Traeth Lligwy

Distance: 8.13 miles

Max Altitude: 57 m

Min Altitude: 1 m

Height Gain: 195 m

Height Loss: 195 m

This walking lark can be an odd business. Sometimes despite making zero effort, the kilometres fall away and before you know it, you’re 15km further along the path. Other times, it’s a slog and a centimetre by centimetre affair. It’s without any explanation but today was mostly the latter.

I started, as ever, from where I had left off. I was between Benllech and Traeth Bychan high above the sea. The Wales Coast Path in this section is covered in dense foliage. For about two kilometres I fought my way through the undergrowth like an explorer in the Amazon. I had the same old machete yearning that I often get in these situations. You think I’m exaggerating?

I arrived at the edge of Traeth Bychan. The path went across the cliff edge, but since the tide was out I thought I’d just walk across the beach.

Needing a boost, I had a banana milkshake at the nearby cafe and then got on my way again. I should have taken a photo of this wondrous milkshake but I was too busy slurping it down. 

Energised, I walked on towards Moelfre. There had been a landslide there recently so the Wales Coast Path had been rerouted. So I walked across the rocks towards the town. The colours were almost unreal. 

I didn’t stop in Moelfre but continued along the coast.

I arrived at Moelfre Lifeboat Station and the memorial to the Royal Charter disaster of 1859

Nearby is also a statue dedicated to former lifeboat coxswain, Dic Evans, who helped save the lives of those onboard the Hindlea almost 100 years to the day after the Royal Charter disaster.

Heading towards Traeth Lligwy, I landed at Bryn Wylfa, a look out point with a sculpture to mark the spot.



The earlier overcast day had cleared to reveal cheery blue skies, which made Traeth Lligwy look even more stunning.


Not long after, the Wales Coast a Path was diverted inland to avoid an estuary. I decided to call it a day near The Pilot Boat pub.

I should mention that during this entire time, my mobile signal was non-existent. The previous evening, when I had a signal, I had messaged Terry from Terry’s Trek and told him about the £36 tent pitch. Unbeknownst to me during my communications blackout, Terry had been hard at work organising a pitch for the night for me. What a star! 

And so it was that I ended up at Tyddyn Isaf. This is a well-appointed caravan and camping park which sits just above Traeth Lligwy, just north of Moelfre. I received a tremendous welcome from the family, and a complimentary pitch for the evening. I am so grateful and can’t recommend this place highly enough. Diolch yn fawr! 

With Clark Tent set up I virtually passed out with this as my view –

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