94. Parcllyn – Aberteifi (Cardigan)
Distance: 12.05 miles
Max Altitude: 119 m
Min Altitude: 4 m
Height Gain: 348 m
Height Loss: 460 m
Two days of respite with Chris and Richard had done me the power of good. To have a roof over my head, running water and good conversation was just wonderful. My feet were still in a bit of a state but the rest had seen them improve.
I set off from where I had left the Wales Coast Path, just outside Aberporth in Parcllyn. I was outside the Qinetq site, which I had to circumnavigate in order to get back to the coast. I was back on familiar territory.
As I made it back to the cliff, I met a rambler who told me a bit about the particular cove we were standing over, Traeth y Gwyrddon. There had been a shipwreck, a suicide and plenty of drama in this very tiny part of the world. We spotted something moving below, something black.
It was a seal pup flumping its way up the sand and into a cave. I had seen a few with their heads bobbing above the water but none moving across sand. If only I had a proper camera with a long lens, but alas, I had to make do with my phone as always.
We said our goodbyes and on I went. It wasn’t particularly hot, nor was it sunny but the humidity was high. Fortunately there was a light breeze.
‘Oh no’, I thought, when I turned a corner.
I was glad of the light breeze when I got to the top of those, I can tell you. I was also glad when I could see Mwnt in the distance; Moel y Fwnt was the hump above it.
In no time I arrived at the tiny church beside the beach, Eglwys y Grog.
Despite the numerous times I’d been to Mwnt with my family I had never been inside the church, so I had a quick look.
Some poor person had left their glasses. There they were, perched on a wall looking out at the coast, waiting for their owner to reclaim them.
The beach brought back many happy memories. It was always a bit of a treat to go to Mwnt as it was a longer trek to get there than some of the other beaches further north, like Aberporth or Cei Newydd. What I remember more than anything about Mwnt is the sand; always golden, always perfect.
Even in blustery or stormy conditions, Mwnt has a certain majesty about it. It was time to push on.
The waymarks were not clear after I had said farewell to Mwnt. I followed a path up a hill which then pointed me to the bottom of a field. I went through a kissing gate and then saw this little fellow.
Ynys Aberteifi was a prominent feature but it was hard to photograph due to the position of the sun. I got one in the end though.
Rounding the headland I arrived at Gwbert.
I journeyed up the Teifi estuary towards Aberteifi. This is a river that occupies a prominent position in my life. My grandparents lived beside it, my father fished it for decades and my aunt is even named after it. Never had I walked beside it here though. A special moment in my lifetime.
Across the water was Poppit Sands and the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. Soon I would be hiking along its well trodden tracks.
The sun was setting as I arrived in Aberteifi. It would not be long before I’d have to bid farewell to Ceredigion as I embarked on the rest of my journey home.
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