87. Aberystwyth – Llanrhystud
Distance: 1o.27 miles
Max Altitude: 142 m
Min Altitude: 1 m
Height Gain: 480 m
Height Loss: 458 m
I’m not sure what to say about today. I was miserable. I wanted to quit.
It didn’t start like that though. Quite the opposite in fact.
I had a hearty breakfast and felt cheered to be walking under a blue sky and sunshine.
I walked down the promenade, past the castle and towards the harbour.
I followed the waymarks and was led onto Pont Trefechan over Afon Rheidol. Everything seemed to glisten. There was traffic and people but it felt like there was no noise at all.
I noticed this plaque on the bridge.
So many feelings came to the surface on account of that little plaque and those few words. Maybe that was the source of my later misery, I don’t know.
The Welsh language, my language, has come so far since 1963 in many ways. But it has gone backwards in so many others. And what I’ve seen and heard during my travels so far around Wales leaves me nothing but concerned, frustrated and sad. Moreover, I feel helpless. More on that another time maybe.
The Wales Coast Path then took me past the breakwater and over another river, Afon Ystwyth, which gives Aber its name. See that peak on the right hand side of the photo? I was headed for that.
I had a walk along a stony beach. There were hardly any people about, just a couple of men fishing. I looked back at Aber behind me.
And then it was time to tackle the hill in front of me. I took this photo half way up, huffing and puffing like a choo choo train. It felt endless.
Ok, I admit that the view from the top was a stunner. I could see Craig-Lais (Constitution Hill) opposite me with Tywyn far away in the distance.
For a while I had a flat-ish walk on the cliff edge. There was south Ceredigion ahead.
A humerous and perplexing sight lay ahead. Two men sitting on deckchairs with all their personal effects, wearing shower caps just enjoying the sun and peace, miles from anywhere. Beautiful.
And who could blame them? I mean, just look at the Wales Coast Path. It’s pretty perfect isn’t it?
But I started to tire. I don’t know why. I had had enough food and was drinking water but the fatigue just set in like a fog. It clouded my mind and negative thoughts began dancing around my mind.
Why was I doing this? What was the point? My fundraising seemed to be grinding to a halt. Did anyone care? Did I care? And on and on.
Before anyone gets the wrong idea, I know exactly why I’m doing this and so forth. However, when you’re on your own day in day out, and you’re tired, it’s pretty easy to drift into glass half empty mode. The solitude and the trekking can play tricks. One of the greatest challenges, arguably, is not the walking but the thinking, the believing. Keeping the mind strong is so much harder than keeping the legs strong.
Arriving at Clogwyni Penderi was scant consolation. Though I was surprised that this very site was once one of the largest cormorant breeding locations in Wales until hungry foxes drove them away.
And then I sat down, spent. I sat with my head in my hands for ages and felt angry with myself.
I tweeted that I was struggling and immediately got encouraging and positive replies in return. What a boost. So people did care.
Sharp shooting pains plagued my feet and I elevated them for a while. It helped a bit. Somehow I picked myself up enough to continue. I hobbled onwards.
There was plenty of visible coastal erosion.
I arrived in Llanrhystud, my stopping point for the evening. What a relief. I had made it. The WCP seemed to throw a beautiful sunset at me as a reward. And I was thankful.
Tomorrow would be a new day.
8 thoughts on “87. Aberystwyth – Llanrhystud”
Thereis no worse place to be than alone with your thoughts sometimes. You are doing amazing….I know this is one hell of a challenge, I thought so when we talked about it over coffee. Next time you have one of these ideas I will try to find an alternative one….think it would be impossible saying no. Xxx
Haha, yes Linda xx
Dalier ati, ti’n neud rhywbeth anhygoel a rhywbeth o’r rhestr fwced na fydd prin unrhyw arall yn gwneud yn eu bywydau. Nid ar chwarae bach mae cyflawni rhywbeth fel hyn ac wrth gwrs fydd sialensau annisgwyl yn codi. Keep on trucking, innit? Toot toot!
Geiriau doeth, Mr Bongo!
What you are doing is amazing. You spoke to me about your dad. I spoke to Bernadette, my neighbours and friends. They all spoke to others about your effort. The word does get round. Think. You are planting seeds of awareness in people. They will germinate and spread, so it’s not all for nothing. You are on the homeward stretch now. It’s hard, but would you want it any other way??!
Thank you Pam. You are an inspiration.
Y stori sydd erbyn hyn mor bwysig hefyd, does neb arall yn cynnig y fath olwg ar Gymru trwy lygaid a dealltwriath dynes gref a dealladwy ac yn deall yn glir pwysigrwydd a chyflwr yr iaith ar draws canran helaith o Gymru.
Be wyt ti yn ffeindio ydi gwybodaeth ymarferol am yr iaith ar lafar o gwmpas Cymru; mae’r ymchwil hwn yn rhiwbeth hollol annisgwyl ond mor mor bwysig ac yn y cyfrolau a ddaw mi fydd y stori hon yn drawsnewidiol dw i’n gredi.
Cymer hoi fach!! mae yna ddigon o bobol y ti cefn i ti ac yn edmygi yn fawr iawn iawn be wyt yn gyflawni.
Pan fyddwn ni yn rhoi’r ffidil yn y to da ni’n gwybod yn sicr fod rhiwun arall wedi ennill; mae yna ddigon a arwyddion positif os edrychwn yn y lle iawn; dw i’n sicr y bydd y cyfrolau yn ennill nifer o wobrau yn y ddwy iaith!!
Roedd y daith yn sicr o fod yn drawsnewidiol a felli mae’n troi allan!!.
Mi fydd yna groeso cynnes yma i ti pan yn ail ymweld a’r nifer helaith o lefydd arbennig yr wyt wedi ffeindio ar y daith.
Wel, dyma eiriau hynod o garedig. Diolch i chi’ch dau am anfon neges mor hyfryd!