Siriol

Distance: 8.16 miles

Max Altitude: 67 m

Min Altitude: 3 m

Height Gain: 217 m

Height Loss: 157 m

I wasn’t sure what to do about today. I didn’t know whether to have a total rest day or just carry on. So I decided to compromise and do a half day instead.

I rejoined the Wales Coast Path at Pontllyfni. As with the previous day, the route was a rather dull stretch next to the A499. But to my left shoulder was the ominous sight of Gyrn Ddu, towering.

Whilst in front of me was Yr Eifl, the mountain range consisting of three peaks. This was what I could see so prominently from Ynys Môn on a fine day as I rounded the south west tip.

I ambled onwards next to the traffic but trying to concentrate on the mountains instead. Finally a right hand turn took me off the road and towards Trefor. I was overjoyed at reaching the quiet beach, and even more thrilled to be greeted there by this happy-looking tractor.

I nosed around the harbour for a while and was mesmerised by the setting. I mean, look at it…

This pier just around the corner from the harbour was recently condemned. However there were still people fishing on it. Braver than me, that’s for sure.

I decided at this point to call it a day. Tomorrow is going to be a biggie.

https://instagram.com/p/BIzYNe7Br98/

Distance: 12.42 miles

Max Altitude: 35 m

Min Altitude: 3 m

Height Gain: 133 m

Height Loss: 136 m

I awoke at the crack of dawn once more. Instead of getting irritated, I was actually rather pleased as the sunset over Fferm Is Helen was stunning.

I’m so incredibly grateful to Grace and the rest of the family at Fferm Is Helen for being so welcoming. The facilities are fantastic, as are the views. Without question my favourite campsite so far on my journey. Diolch yn fawr!

After leaving, I headed west on the Wales Coast Path. The Menai Straits were on my right shoulder for a few kilometres. A flotilla of sailing boats were taking advantage of the winds.

I was diverted inland for a good while and finally the trail reached the mudflats and marshes of Y Foryd. Under grey skies it looked pretty atmospheric.

And then came the part of the day I’d been waiting for – Caernarfon Airport! As I arrived a microlight was getting ready to take off. I watched from just a few metres away.

And within minutes the Coastguard Rescue helicopter took to the skies. 

I sat in the cafe and had lunch while watching the various light aircraft take off and land. As I was leaving I noticed that the Caernarfon Airworld Museum was open so I decided to pay a visit. It really didn’t disappoint. 

I spent a happy 90 minutes ooh-ing and ah-ing at the various displays and memorabilia. It’s one of the few museums where you can sit in the cockpits of real vintage aircraft. 

https://instagram.com/p/BIvBGUrBkp2/

There’s also lots of history regarding the old RAF Llandwrog and its role during WWII, as well as features on some local heroes of the air. 

I left with my head filled with all things aviation and carried on towards Dinas Dinlle. This had been one of my favourite places to come to for a chill out when I worked in Bangor. And although there a few more tourists than there had been back then, it still hadn’t lost its charm. Or its views. This is one place I will never get sick of returning to.

The WCP then cut inland to avoid nesting birds and I found myself walking on the side of the A499, which wasn’t particularly inspiring. 

So I decided to call it a day when I got to Pontllyfni. I had done more than I had planned to but didn’t feel any worse for it.

Distance: 10.44 miles

Max Altitude: 92 m

Min Altitude: 5 m

Height Gain: 167 m

Height Loss: 182 m

Still buoyed by yesterday, I woke up happy despite the pain in my feet waking me up on several occasions during the night. 

I went downstairs for breakfast to find an envelope with my name on it waiting for me at the table. I opened it with curiosity. Inside was a beautifully written note and a donation from Monica, one of the staff I had chatted to at dinner. I was so touched by the gesture, it was all I could do not to blub in the dining room. Thank you so much to everyone at the Garden Hotel.

The note is now tucked away safely into my rucksack for good luck, and will stay with me for the rest of my journey.

My first task was to go into Bangor to sort a few things out. I may be on the trail but real life still goes on. 

After all the admin and some food I set off to rejoin the Wales Coast Path. It was a long and boring walk through the suburbs of Bangor. The only interesting thing I accomplished was to nip in to Ysbyty Gwynedd for a can of drink. I can’t say I’ve ever popped into a hospital for a drink before. 

I ambled on in boredom until I got to Y Felinheli. I almost missed the turn down into Dinorwic Marina, but was pleased when I got there. At last, I was beside the water once again. 

A little further on in the village itself I stopped to have a snack. I was overlooking Ynys Môn, where I’d been just a day earlier. In the meantime, Pam, the lady I met in Malltraeth had left me a very kind message and donation. Thank you, Pam!

From there, it was just a very long walk on a Tarmac trail until I got to the outskirts of Caernarfon. 

In a few miles I came to Doc Fictoria in Caernarfon. I decided to stop to rest my feet. I may have had an ice cream at the same time. 

Continuing along the waterfront took me past the harbour and famous castle. 

https://instagram.com/p/BIspO4FhT-y/

Before I knew it, the castle was behind me. I remember visiting at the age of nine with my parents, part of a whistle-stop tour we did of North Wales’ castles. 

When I arrived at Fferm Is Helen, I had the most fantastic welcome from the family. In fact, they already had my map open on the laptop when I walked in through the door. We chatted for ages over a cup of tea before I was shown the facilities. 

All that was left for me to do was to pitch Clark Tent up in the most idyllic spot, overlooking the Menai Straits and watch the sun set on another day.