95. Aberteifi (Cardigan) – Pen Cemaes

95. Aberteifi (Cardigan) – Pen Cemaes

Distance: 5 miles

Max Altitude: 123 m

Min Altitude: 1 m

Height Gain: 194 m

Height Loss: 101 m

What do they say about the best laid plans? I had big intentions for today and it was going to be one of those long days of hiking. But the weather had other ideas.

The rain in Aberteifi was biblical and I spent the morning and early afternoon sheltering inside a cafe. Memories of being eight years old and stuck inside during my summer holidays. 

When it started to clear eventually, I made a break for it, knowing that I wouldn’t get that far. Still, every mile counts. 

My first task was to cross the Afon Teifi. 

There were plenty of interesting buildings en route to Llandudoch (St Dogmaels). 

And it was without fuss or ceremony that I crossed into Sir Benfro (Pembrokeshire). Ceredigion had come to an end and I felt a brief moment of sadness.

I got to Llandudoch and had a quick nose around the ruins of the monastery.

It was founded in the 6th century by Dudoch Sant, who gave the town its name. It was shut by Henry VIII in 1536.

The Wales Coast Path founds its way back to the very edge of the water. And right there was the marker to indicate the official beginning of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. I had reached yet another milestone on my journey.

One of the most famous walks in Europe, possibly the world, this path was established in 1970. It’s 300km, or 186 miles, in length and stretches from Llandudoch to Amroth. 

The beginning of a new Walking Wales chapter and an exciting one.

I bypassed another family favourite of Poppit, purely because of the weather. It was by now raining again, coupled with the high winds. Not exactly the day to enjoy lovely Poppit, so I pressed on. 

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path, like the Offa’s Dyke Path, is a National Trail, whose waymarks are tiny acorns. I hadn’t seen one since I stepped off the ODP in Prestatyn way back in June (feels like years ago). So I was delighted to be guided by them once more on this part of my trek.

The ascent up to Pen Cemaes was relentless and really quite miserable. This is the highest point on the Pembrokeshire section. Maybe good to get it out of the way quickly? In high winds though? Maybe not. The views over to Ynys Aberteifi were awesome, but imagine the same view with a beautiful blue sky and sunshine. 


My stopping point for the night would be a very blustery Pen Cemaes. I battened down the hatches and prepared for a stormy night.

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