109. Porthstinian – Niwgwl (Newgale)

109. Porthstinian – Niwgwl (Newgale)

Distance: 16.3 miles

Max Altitude: 108 m

Min Altitude: 2 m

Height Gain: 535 m

Height Loss: 548 m

It was another fine day on the Wales Coast Path and I started walking from the Tyddewi (St Davids) Lifeboat Station. The forecast was favourable and I planned to make a proper assault on the trail.

Ynys Dewi (Ramsey Island) opposite was bathed in sunlight.

I was curious about this line of buoys in the photo, and wondered whether they were there to denote a wreck of some sort. Anyone reading who has an idea, please tell me.

I had miles of rugged coastline ahead of me. The terrain underfoot was pretty tough going, I must say. I was careful about where I trod and watched every step carefully. I didn’t want to give my feet any further reason to hate me.

I came around the headland into the narrow Porth Clais.

There was plenty of evidence of its industrial past.


I continued onwards after a break to elevate my feet. I came past Bae Santes Non (for those of you who don’t know, Non was St David’s mum), and noticed a group of coasteers having a whale of a time. Like lemmings they leapt from the rocks into the sea below.

Bae Caerfai was my next port of call.

I could scarcely believe the variety of colours in the rocks.

There were signs warning that there were wild ponies grazing about the place but I hadn’t seen any. Just as I started to wonder where they all were, I saw this pair happily munching away next to the path.

The wild coastline continued. Each cove took my breath away.

One thing that struck me in particular was the nature of the grassy terrain. It was wavy and looked like someone had laid carpet over a set of office cables.

Late afternoon was starting to produce that distinctive Pembrokeshire sunset.

I was delighted to see yet another natural arch at Porth y Rhaw. I started to wonder how many there were around Wales’ coastline. And then I started to wonder whether it was possible to kayak through all of them. Was this another hair-brained adventure scheme I was dreaming up?

Finally I had reached Solfach (Solva), one of my favourite harbour-side villages.

Even better was the fact that I had a yarnbombed waymark to guide me in.

It was promising to be a beautiful dusk.

Here’s a pointless local fact for you. The musician David Gray moved to Solfach when he was eight years old. His parents ran this craft shop in the village.

A quick drink and snack at The Harbour pub and I was back on my way again.


It wasn’t far out of Solva when I encountered this beautiful wild pony right on the track.


I kept having to stop to look at the sunset.

By the time I arrived into Newgale, the sunset was a true work of art.


The sea was calm with no surf whatsoever. I sat on the beach and watched the sun disappear.

4 thoughts on “109. Porthstinian – Niwgwl (Newgale)

  1. Have to say, you take smashing photographs. Certainly makes me put the Welsh Coast Path on my to do list. Hope feet are holding up.

  2. Kayaking?????? We need to talk about this…..you cannot be serious!!!!!!!!!! Xenia the Purple Princess is not putting to sea…..😛 xxx

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