Siriol

My first rest day of #WalkingWales feels strange. I feel that I should be walking and am even missing the weight of my rucksack, though ask me whether I still feel like that by Friday!

I’m in Chepstow (Cas-Gwent) with my feet up (not really). This town marks the end/start of both the Wales Coast Path and Offa’s Dyke Path. It feels fitting to have a rest stop here therefore.

It was dark when I arrived last night so I have spent most of the day just walking about the town, in particular the area around the Old Wye Bridge. It’s an important place for both the ODP and WCP.

Nearby there are several stone and mosaic monuments marking both paths.

https://instagram.com/p/BGUOXrhTckc/

One of the coolest things about the Offa’s Dyke Path is their Hall of Fame, which is what you’re inaugurated into if you walk the entire route. I have my ODP Completion Card at the ready, and got it stamped at the nearby Boat Inn earlier on.

As of tomorrow, I will be following these acorn waymarks for the next 177 miles between Chepstow and Prestatyn. I can’t wait.

Step Count: 21,961 

Distance: 8.16 miles

Max Altitude: 16 m

Min Altitude: 3 m

Height Gain: 45 m

Height Loss: 52 m

I decided to start late today. I was a little fuzzy-headed after yesterday and I think I was dehydrated. So I spent the morning drinking plenty of water and SOS Rehydrate, and taking care of some Walking Wales admin.

I set off from Goldcliff early afternoon, after a cup of tea at the Seawall. I picked up some supplies from the shop there too as the stretch between Goldcliff and Caldicot has no facilities near the Wales Coast Path.

After spending yesterday escaping angry bulls and being routed away from the coast for most of the day, most of today was spent walking along the sea wall. Unlike yesterday’s sunshine, today was overcast and a haze hung over the Severn Estuary.

As I reached Summerleaze, I decided to take a break, tucking into the Welsh cakes I’d bought from the Seawall.

It couldn’t have been more different from the last few days. It was isolated and I didn’t see a soul all day. The only creatures I encountered were sheep and cows.

Then, suddenly, through the haze, I saw the Second Severn Crossing in the distance. It was a symbolic moment and I felt great!

https://instagram.com/p/BGPh3uiTchE/

South of the Severn Toll, I was routed away from the coast due to the local wildlife. Walking down a Tarmac road, a very loud ‘MOO’ made me jump. I thought a repeat of yesterday was on the cards. Indeed it was a bull, an angry one at that, and he was staring right at me. Fortunately though, this time, he was stuck behind a thick hedge and fence. Siriol 1 Bull 0.

Shortly after crossing over the M4, I reached Caldicot Station. I decided to stop there for the night whilst there was still daylight. And off I went to find a place for Clark Tent and I to stay the night.
Before I sign off, I want to say a huge thank you to the South Wales Scorpions and North Wales Crusaders fans at the Big Welsh Derby today for donating £206.78 to #WalkingWales. Overwhelmingly generous. Diolch yn fawr!

Step Count: 21,312 

Distance: 6.97

Max Altitude: 17 m

Min Altitude: 1 m

Height Gain: 62 m

Height Loss: 66 m

It was almost a deja moo (thanks Lals) on the Wales Coast Path this morning. After being accosted by the ‘cows’ (bullocks) yesterday evening, I picked a random field to sleep in, free from murderous bovine. I was out for the count until my alarm went off this morning. I had a quick tent wash (wet wipes), packed up my rucksack and set off for the Newport Wetlands.

I had to cross the same field again but luckily the bullocks were grazing on the other side. I was so pleased to have evaded them. But my delight was short lived because no sooner had I left the field that I landed back inside another one populated by even more bullocks. Well, first off I thought they were cows, but soon realised they weren’t when they started charging towards me en masse; also the lack of udders and huge horns were a bit of a giveaway (hey I don’t pretend to be an expert in livestock!). Off I pegged back over the stile, while they crowded towards me, snorting. Hmm, what’s the way out of this, I wondered…the path was leading me through the field, after all. I decided to make my way into the next field over to see if I could get through that way. No such luck. The thicket was way too, er, thick. So back I went to the field to see if I could spot another route. My luck was in! They had all decided that I wasn’t that interesting and had gone to graze on the opposite side of the field. I sneaked through and got to the next stile. Excellent I thought, and began striding through the long grass.

https://instagram.com/p/BGL3MD8TcnG/

You’d think that by now I’d have learnt about hubris because, yes, you guessed it: yet another field with bullocks and one enormous brown bull with massive horns and a penchant for goring backpackers. Oh dear. They had spotted me and began heading towards me with a speedy intent.  I had to escape into the thick reeds and ended up in soggy marsh, up to my ankles. Gah! And then I crouched down and hid, I’m unashamed to say. I kept popping my head up to see if they’d moved on and within about 15 minutes they had. I was then able to move slowly to the stile, ducking out of sight the whole way.

I was already behind schedule. Sprinting and hiding from bulls can take its toll on general timekeeping. However, I was only too happy to just amble along on the Wales Coast Path through the Newport Wetlands, and make the most of the sunshine. The East Usk Lighthouse is an impressive sight.

Nearby I met a woman from Warwick who was ticking off sections of the WCP and Offa’s Dyke Path bit by bit. Val had done Pembrokeshire and north Wales amongst several other parts. She would drive to Wales and take buses and taxis to the sections she was covering that day. We walked and chatted for a good 2km. She too had almost been gored by the bulls shortly after I had. We said our goodbyes and Val pushed on ahead.

Finally, I reached the seawall south of Goldcliff and decided to pitch Clark Tent right on top. I was tired and fancied a snooze, so that is what I did. After an hour or so I was back on my way. The path led me through fields of sheep and cows, often quite far inland in order to avoid the nesting places of wetland birds.

I was feeling good when, yet again, the path led me into a field full of bullocks, which I assumed were cows, and which, yet again, decided to advance upon me as I was half way through the meadow. Should I run forwards or back? It was like being hung up between third and fourth base. I began sidling. But each step I took was mirrored by the bullocks. There was no choice but to sprint, so away I went at a pace. And towards me they charged. I got to the stile just in the nick of time, out of breath. They were so angry they were butting the stile, but I had escaped. Relief!

In no time at all I had reached the Seawall at Goldcliff. This is a tiny shop and cafe operated by a family out of their home which is right next to the seawall. And a charming place it is too; a proper oasis for the traveller. The lady who served me told me that she had been expecting me; Val had told them that I’d be along in a short while after her. I had tea, a lollipop and some sugary treats, and managed to do some writing in the sun.

After feeling fully refreshed, I headed towards the seawall and appreciated the view before setting up camp nearby for the night.

https://instagram.com/p/BGM4NEfzcr0/

Step Count: 32,004

Distance: 12.14 miles

Max Altitude: 18 m

Min Altitude: 4 m

Height Gain: 99 m

Height Loss: 100 m

It was quite the morning. I slept like a log after yesterday and even high winds on the Severn Estuary couldn’t buffet Clark Tent enough to wake me. I left the campsite to get to the path by about 0830 and started walking. Within 30 minutes as I passed Peterstone Wentlooge, I noticed a collection of driftwood on a marshy patch next to the sea wall. When I looked closer I saw that somebody had created the name ‘BRIAN’ in giant letters. I was overwhelmed. As you will know, that was the name of my late father, whom I lost to pancreatic cancer four years ago, and the whole reason why I’m doing #WalkingWales. It was incredible, strange and emotional. A positive sign if ever there was one though.

When I got to the West Usk Lighthouse I took the opportunity to sit down and just be.

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I could see the Transporter Bridge in the distance but because of the industrial zones, as well as several temporary diversions, I was routed inland for ages. I walked through Dyffryn and arrived at Maesglas Industrial Estate, where I was very kindly given coffee, biscuits and a comfortable chair by ironman triathlete, Richie Bowen. It was much needed and I am very appreciative of the hospitality. Richie’s chosen charity for Ironman Wales was Pancreatic Cancer UK too.

Then on to Pill before I finally got to the Transporter Bridge. I stood beneath it for the first time in my life; before today I’d only ever driven past. And as luck had it I was just in time for the final crossing of the day too. Yes, yes, it’s technically cheating because the Transporter Bridge isn’t on the Wales Coast Path, but the fact that it’s a national treasure is my perfectly valid excuse.

After passing near factories and through a large industrial zone, I was finally back in some yellow meadows nearing the Newport Wetlands. I arrived in Nash and the waymark was directing me across a field of cows. Thinking nothing of it, I strode across the field. I felt a rumbling behind me and saw the herd rushing towards me, so I had to hightail it across the rest of the field before leaping to safety across the fence on the other side. I think they may have been a bit hungry. Either that or they wanted me dead….

https://instagram.com/p/BGKXaM_zcjg/