89. Cei Bach – Llangrannog

89. Cei Bach – Llangrannog

Distance: 10.50 miles

Max Altitude: 207 m

Min Altitude: 1 m

Height Gain: 500 m

Height Loss: 495 m

More messages of support greeted me when I woke up. I really wasn’t expecting such a reaction to my post from a couple of days ago but I feel very lucky to have so many people who appreciate what I’m trying to do. 

I had a quick porridge and rejoined the Wales Coast Path. Well, technically I didn’t. I decided to go down to the beach at Cei Bach once more, which isn’t actually on the official route. But the tide was out and going out so I chose to walk from Cei Bach to Cei Newydd around the headland. This was a first for me. If the tide is in there’s no way of doing this so I had picked the right time of day.

It was a stunning day and the walk to Cei Newydd was easy along the flat beach, in spite of my painful feet. 

To reach Cei Newydd, one of my favourite seaside towns, was a treat. 

I’d been there countless times but never arrived on foot (as with almost everywhere else on this journey!).

I sat on the green for a while just watching the world go by. Bliss. I had lunch and an ice cream at a cafe before getting back on my way again.

I had a quick nose about before I truly left on the Wales Coast Path. And I was glad I did when I spotted the name of this house. 

For any non-fans of Dylan Thomas, this is the name of the town in his play ‘Under Milkwood’. And Cei Newydd is on the Dylan Thomas trail, which I mentioned yesterday. And why was I so glad to see the house’s name? Well, read the name backwards…

Also, I’ve driven past this house numerous times so it was high time for me to get a photo.

As soon as I left Cei the climbing started. Up and up and up. This entire section had been tough. My feet knew it too. 

I got to an observation point. A perfect location.

This lookout was last used by coastguards  in the 1960s. 

Shortly after I had the choice of a low or high path. Going against my personality I chose the high path. It seemed to undulate less.

I was excited to reach my next psychologically-positive location, Cwm Tydu. This was another one of my childhood family destinations. We would come here to skim stones on the stream and generally enjoy the peaceful surroundings. Dad loved it here.

I wanted to stay and skim stones but knew I had to push on. I would be back. 

In time I had another blast from the past. This time the Urdd camp at Llangrannog. I came here several times as a child and young person for week long holidays, where I would ride horses, go to the beach, sleep in a dorm of eight and generally have an excellent time. The last time I came here was when I was 17. And that’s when I skied this very dry slope.

I wasn’t far from Llangrannog itself. I remember being made to walk the whole distance from camp to the beach and moaning the whole way as a child. Little did I know that as I grown up I’d attempt a 1000 mile hike!

As I made my way past Ynys Lochtyn, I was reminded of an old Welsh legend about a giant that had been responsible for creating the terrain.

Bica the giant lived in the mountains. When he suffered from toothache he offered a reward to anybody who could help him. A lonely dwarf named Lochtyn told Bica that he should place his feet in the sea. So he set off for the coast and arrived in Llangrannog. His first footstep formed the beach at Llangrannog, while his second formed Cilborth beach. His tooth fell out between his feet creating Carreg Bica, and the giant’s pain was gone! Lochtyn’s wish was that he lived on an island so Bica ran his finger across the headland north of Llangrannog, thus creating Ynys Lochtyn.

Here’s Cilborth.

While here’s Llangrannog itself.


I had arrived just in time for the sunset. My grandmother hated Llangrannog because it always made her feel claustrophobic due to the huge rockfaces that surround the village. But to me, it looked pretty perfect in the failing light. 

I stayed on the beach until it got dark before setting up camp. A tiring but rewarding day filled with nostalgia.

P.S. There’s Carreg Bica just off centre in the above photo.

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