75. Llanengan – Mynytho

75. Llanengan – Mynytho

Distance: 11 miles

Max Altitude: 118 m

Min Altitude: 1 m

Height Gain: 444 m

Height Loss: 433 m

It wasn’t a long way to rejoin the Wales Coast Path from camp. Soon I was walking on the sandy beach of Porth Neigwl. Despite its fearsome reputation (in olden days, sailors would refer to it as ‘hell’s mouth’) the sea was calm.

It was then a steady climb up to Mynydd Cilan. From up high, the water looked like a freshly ironed sheet. 

I was making good progress and rounded Trwyn Cilan in no time. Suddenly I had the most wonderful view of Ceredigion in the distance, and where I was headed.

Hundreds of thousands of pounds worth of yachts, speedboats and jet skis were below me. I was getting closer to Abersoch. 

By this time, the sun had started to come out and Porth Ceiriad was shining. How I wanted to ditch walking and spend some time on that beach.

And then a sign that made me stop in my tracks, considering what had happened the previous day and numerous other occasions. But then I looked again…(!)

A wannabe graphic designer with a sense of humour maybe? Anyway, there were no breeding bulls or anything else. Relief.

Rounding Trwyn yr Wylfa, I got my first glimpse of Ynysoedd Tudwal. 

The nearest one in the photo belongs to Bear Grylls, who uses it as a holiday home. He paid £95,000 for it in 2001. The island behind it was owned by Carla Lane until she died earlier this year. 

Machroes was the next stop where I could see Traeth Abersoch stretching out ahead. 

A short walk along the beach took me past dozens of pretty beach huts. One of them was recently sold for £153,000. A metaphor for all that’s wrong with the world maybe.

I have happy memories of Abersoch (including the time when I threw sand at people on the beach as a toddler…my family enjoy reminding me of this), but it has changed so much. Some of it looks the same.


But the vibe was different. It was like Primrose Hill had descended upon the town and dragged the cast of ‘Howard’s Way’ along with them. 

I didn’t stay but pushed on to camp instead. Thank you to Gwel y Môr for my pitch for the evening and to the ever wonderful Terry for organising. 

The end of Llŷn was in sight.

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