73. Anelog – Aberdaron
Distance: 7.4 miles
Max Altitude: 160 m
Min Altitude: 2 m
Height Gain: 446 m
Height Loss: 491 m
I woke up to high winds in camp. Packing Clark away was a challenge and at one point the tent looked more like a kite as I struggled to hold on to it.
Thank you again to Gillian and Geraint at Aberdaron Farm Holidays for giving me the pitch. Another gem of a campsite on Llŷn.
I had partly climbed Mynydd Anelog the previous day, so up I went again to rejoin the trail. The winds were getting even stronger, so much so that someone had taken pity on this Wales Coast Path marker post.
Ahead of me was Braich y Pwll and Mynydd Mawr, the next big hill to tackle.
The trail descended to just above Llanllawen and then arose sharply. Suddenly I was struggling up a steep bank of gorse and heather.
Behind me was Mynydd Anelog, which gave me some comfort at least.
Even the sheep were shattered!
After much huffing and puffing and with my calves burning, I reached the top. There were two tiny brick huts. This location was a lookout point for the Coastguard’s until 1990. It was also part of a chain of signalling stations guarding against invasion during the Second World War. During the 1940s more than 70 RAF personnel would have been stationed here.
But up ahead was the real prize – the view over to Ynys Enlli (Bardsey). Even under grey skies it looked majestic.
I pushed on despite the high winds. The seas beside me were rough. There were no boats or ships out there.
I passed the headland of Pen-y-Cil but went wrong. One way marker pointed in one direction while the next one pointed back in exactly the same direction. Eventually after traversing a couple of fields I rejoined the Wales Coast Path, much to my relief. I could see Aberdaron poking out from behind the headland in the distance.
I descended on steps into Porth Meydwy, which is where the boat to Yns Enlli is launched from. All boats were in port. I was happy to see this jolly green tractor though. An addition to my seaside tractor photo collection.
Another steep climb on steps again and my feet were screaming at me. Not long until Aberdaron though. When I saw yet another set of steps however, it was game over. No way.
I decided to walk along the beach to get to Aberdaron instead. The tide was coming in so I had to traverse these boulders instead of walking on the sand.
And then I reached my destination. Relief! I had my dinner in Y Gegin Fawr, which had its own history too. It was built in 1300AD and pilgrims would gather at this communal kitchen before they made the crossing to Ynys Enlli. It felt fitting. After all, I am on my own sort of pilgrimage.
It had been a hard day of climbs and descents but I was happy with my progress.