Distance: 10.77 miles
Max Altitude: 88 m
Min Altitude: 1 m
Height Gain: 243 m
Height Loss: 278 m
Greeting me at the breakfast table was a hearty meal, two friendly smiles and plenty of hot coffee. Once again, I had a great conversation with Jane and Brian before saying my goodbyes.
Thank you from the bottom of my heart to the two for looking after me and providing such fantastic accomodation for the night. It meant the world.
And with that, I was back on the trail in Pistyll, heading towards Nefyn first off. I was happy to be walking under a blue sky again.
The Wales Coast Path was diverted down a country road, probably to avoid some farmers’ fields. I spotted a campsite with a cafe that said non-campers were welcome, and more crucially they had wifi. So I went in for a cup of tea and the intent to update the blog with my number 67 and 68 entries between Pontllyfni and Pistyll. No such luck. It wasn’t open on Mondays. Ah well. Onwards to Nefyn.
I walked along the beach for a couple of kilometres. I was the only person around. The sand was dotted with pretty rocks and I wanted to pick each one up and put them all in my pocket.
When I reached Nefyn, I made a beeline for the cafe. Again, not open. And so, for the people who ask me why I carry food with me, this is why! It’s also why my blogs are so late in being published.
I ploughed on towards Porth Dinllaen. I was high above the beach by now.
During this time, I bumped into a backpacker from the Netherlands named Ralph. He’s a journalist on holiday and walking the Llŷn section of the Wales Coast Path. I overtook him and he overtook me a few times. We chatted for a bit. It was good to see a tourist from farther afield than usual. The reason he’s here is even better. He chose Wales because of Euro 2016, proving that a little football success stretches far beyond just sport.
I had to stop in wonderment when I reached Port Dinllaen. So perfect.
My intent was to get to the famous Tŷ Coch Inn in order to stop for food and sort the blog out. It seemed though, that everyone else had had the same idea as me; well, the food bit anyway. It was jam packed with tourists, and the queue stretched way out of the door. I couldn’t stand the thought of battling the throngs with my rucksack on in order to get food so I ended up just having a quick drink and getting on my way. What a shame. Well, I guess it gets added to my ever-growing list of places to return to.
I felt low having to walk away from Tŷ Coch. It really is a stunning spot for a pub.
After navigating a craggy section of the WCP, I ended up on a golf course. The contrast between the rugged coastline and the coiffured green was bizarre.
I was gawped at and admonished by portly men sitting in golf buggies, festooned with designer brands. Imagine somebody walking the coastline! Walking! With a rucksack! The humanity…
The Nefyn and District Golf Club was once an Iron Age promontory fort. How times change. Sometimes not for the better.
On I treaded. From nowhere, the weather changed and I was quickly donning my waterproofs. After it passed, I sat down above a quiet cove and listened to the sounds around me. I saw something bobbing in the sea. Could it be…? Yes, it was a seal! I hadn’t seen one since Llandudno. One of his friends popped his head up above the water next to him and before I knew it I was watching two seal pals frolicking in the waves. It made my day.
It was time to get to camp for the night. My instructions were to find an electric fence and head inland, which is what I did.
A huge thanks to Hirdre Fawr Farm for giving me a pitch for the night! And thank you to the tireless Terry for arranging once more.
I’m currently sitting in The Lion Hotel in Tudweiliog trying in vain to upload this blog. The internet is painfully slow. It’s taken me 90 minutes to get this far. Something tells me that this is how it will be for the next couple of days at least. It may be a few days until the next instalment so apologies in advance if that is the case.