68. Trefor – Pistyll

68. Trefor – Pistyll

Distance: 6.1 miles

Max Altitude: 349 m

Min Altitude: 15 m

Height Gain: 478 m

Height Loss: 469 m

Like yesterday, I decided before the get go that this would be a half day, of sorts. Better than having a full day off kicking my heels, I thought that getting even a few miles under my belt would be better than none at all.

So off I went from Trefor. Almost immediately the Wales Coast Path started going up. And up. And up. In no time, Trefor and the surrounding coast was distinctly small.

But it didn’t stop there. The ascent continued up and through Yr Eifl, the three-peaked mountain range. The views got better and better.

Meanwhile, my calves were staging a coup against me. I struggled on upwards, my pack seemingly getting heavier with every single step. Eventually with much huffing and puffing and geeing myself on, I got to Bwlch Yr Eifl, standing at 1150ft. It’s not a great height to climb by any stretch of the imagination, but it is when it’s tagged onto more than 500 miles of walking.

From there it was a nice easy descent down into Nant Gwrtheyrn.


This tiny quarry village was abandoned in the 1940s, the buildings becoming derelict. But the land was purchased in the 1970s and a restoration project got underway. It is now a vital heritage and learning centre for the Welsh language. I have happy memories of staying here in primary school. I couldn’t wait to see how it had changed.

It still had the warm and homely village feel that I remember.

Cafe Meinir (named after the tragic heroine of the Rhys and Meinir Welsh love legend) was open and it would’ve been rude to go past without ordering something.

With my belly full, I rejoined the Wales Coast Path, which helpfully goes right through Nant Gwrtheyrn and across to Porth y Nant.

Strewn along the beach were heavy duty quarrying artefacts from the bygone industrial era; a gold mine for someone like me who loves such things!

Once again, the WCP started to ascend. “Please, no!” I thought to myself. One mountain range is quite enough for one day.

Yes the views were spectacular as you can see but my oh my, my calves, feet, legs…soul (!) hated my guts.

My day was almost over however, and the pain in my feet would shortly be gone.

A few weeks ago, if you remember, I was interviewed on the Shan Cothi programme on BBC Radio Cymru. Brian Thomas who runs Penllŷn Accomodation was listening and got in touch with me offering a place to stay when I got to Pen Llŷn. And there he was in Pistyll waiting for me!

I was whisked away to his BnB, where I met his wife Jane and was shown to the most wonderful room, fit for a queen. I felt very lucky and very spoilt. I shall add some photos of this fabulous place tomorrow, as soon as my signal allows it. In the meantime, here was the sunset from my window.

That reminds me, apologies in advance for late blog posts. My signal is mostly non-existent at the moment but I shall be uploading updates as an when it’s possible.

4 thoughts on “68. Trefor – Pistyll

  1. I am amazed at how well you have managed to keep the blog going with updates…I mean…its not as if you are travelling in a City or Town with plenty of wifi spots!!!! Am so glad you got to sleep in a bed again, especially after all those hills…its bad enough with that weight on your back without the problems of your feet. You are doing an amazing thing Siriol…..every day I marvel at your will to keep going. Big cwtch lovely xxx

  2. Visitors can surf the other side of the harbour wall at Trefor. It can be a nice left hand point over a stony reef thrown off the headland. There is a small pier next to the harbour; it has been deemed unsafe so is currently closed to the public. Since 2015 there has been a cycle club established in the village and surrounding area called Clwb Beicio’r Eifl. Its members regularly take part in sportives and club rides.

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